This extract was taken from : “Guide to the Highlands and islands of Scotland including Orkney and Zetland, descriptive of their scenery, statistics, antiquities, and natural history. Containing also directions for visiting the Lowlands of Scotland, with descriptive notices, and maps.” The book is out of print and copyright. (LINK to GoogleBooks copy).
The first half describes in great detail a walk from the source of the River Findhorn, through Coignafearn to the Streens near Moy. The second half is a wonderful account of a cattle rustling incident that took place around 1760 in the lower reaches of the Finhorn, and how it was resolved with honour.
ROUTE II. E. INTERESTING WALKING EXCURSION. 303
Loch of Killin, and from the south end of the vale of that name, up a strait shelving strath running eastward, about twelve miles from Whitebridge, he reaches the summit of an elevated opening in the hills. Soon after, he approaches the isolated Clach Sgoilte, whence the infant streamlet of the Findhorn flows slowly for about a mile, and then descends for two miles and a half with considerable rapidity, when it is joined by the other more southerly branch of the river. The course of these united streams lies, for seven miles, to the shooting lodge of Coignafearn (belonging to Mackintosh of Mackintosh), through a strath appearing generally about 200 yards wide ; the bottom, at times, level and smooth, at others more or less broken, covered with grass and heath, and a considerable quantity of juniper bushes. The hills rise in steep acclivities, and increase in height in the progress eastwards, being destitute of trees, with the exception of a few scattered birches, and they are rather of a verdant than heathy character. The valley winds a little so as to present itself in successive sections with the exception of two or three bothies, occupied by shepherds during the summer, and a more substantial cottage about a mile below the junction of the river (an accessory to the shooting-lodge of Coignafearn), no habitation is to be seen between Lord Lovat’s shooting-lodge, at the end of Loch Killin, and that of Coignafearn, a distance of seventeen miles.
3. We have been thus particular as to this little frequented route, as, from the descriptions of the remainder of the course of the Findhorn, and those of the Vale of Killin, pedestrians may be induced to explore the scenery of both, after that of the Falls of Foyers and Loch Ness, and to undertake an excursion of three or four days betwixt Inverness and Forres, by the valley of the Findhorn. A road has been formed, from the Highland road, as far as Coignafearn, which is ten or eleven miles west from Freeburn. From Coignafearn, to the north end of Killin, a distance of perhaps twenty miles, the foot track is rough, and not such as to be readily followed by a stranger, which, of course, is immaterial, except as it impedes his progress ; on which account, as well as to avoid all risk from mist, it may be prudent for him to take a guide across the pass. The distance from Whitebridge to Freeburn will require fully twelve hours’ walking. From the General’s Hut, at Foyers, where the accommodation is better, the distance is five miles more.
DELL OF DALMIGAVIE. SECT. V.
4. At Coignafearn, the strath twists so that the succeeding compartment is screened from observation till entered upon. It continues, for about three miles a third of a mile in width, and seems as if blocked up at the lower end by an eminence clothed with a fir plantation : steep and lofty hills rise on all hands, so that this scene possesses a character of most perfect seclusion. It is called the Dell of Dalmigavie. The mountains are grand and imposing, from their massive bulk ; yet sweet and pleasing, from their simple configuration, regular surface, and smiling livery of purple and green. On the north side, the acclivities assume the most brilliant emerald tint. The Findhorn, in this and the upper part of its course, runs over a stony channel, only a few feet depressed beneath the surface of the adjacent ground, which is here quite level, and the stream is uniformly rapid. It is liable to sudden speats or inundations, rising at times so as to present a frightful front, several feet high, to the descending torrent, and sweeping along with such impetuosity as to endanger the lives of any persons who may then happen to be crossing the usual fords. The corn-fields and meadow-grass on the low grounds are also precariously situated ; and the proprietors have been obliged, at considerable expense, to line the sinuosities of the river in many places with bulwarks of stone and turf. Below the central eminence above alluded to, the valley, for nearly two miles, contracts to the width of the sixth of a mile. The upper portions of the hills are here, for the most part, inaccessible ; and they are intersected by deep and steep ravines. On an elevated recess, on the north side, stands the farm-house of Daltomich ; and, further on, Glen Mazeran joins the valley on the same side. Below this, is seen the house of Dalmigavie (Mackintosh), five to six miles from Coignafearn, on an elevated terraced spot on the opposite side, graced with dwarf birch trees. Opposite to Dalmigavie, a road strikes across the hill to Farr in Strathnairn, whence it continued straight across the intermediate range to Inverness. The length of this road is about sixteen miles. Below Dalmigavie, the valley of the Findhorn, for six miles, to the Bridge above Corrybrough, (where the Highland road crosses,) is nowise interesting. The hills slope gently from the stream, and are covered with heather and grass ; but the estate of Cullachy, immediately adjoining that of Dalmigavie to the east, and fronting it, lays claim to be ranked as classic ground, from having been the patrimony and early residence of the distinguished statesman and orator, Sir James Mackintosh. It is now undergoing great improvement from the small farmers using extensively the primitive limestone which abounds in the hills.
ROUTE II. D. THE STREENS. 305
5. Below the Bridge of Corrybrough the strath widens to a circumference of six or eight miles, presenting the aspect of having been once the bed of a great lake, which found two outlets, one by the lower basin of Loch Moy, and thence to the river Nairn, and the other through the mountains to the north-east of Freeburn, by the gorge called the Streens. Indeed, the present channel of the river is only about eighteen feet above the surface of Loch Moy ; and the parallel terrace banks encircling the valley on all hands, point out the height at which the waters anciently stood.
The distance from Freeburn to Dulsie is about sixteen miles, and is passable only on foot. The scene, however, is worthy of the exertion required to explore it. Continuous chains of hills rise suddenly on either side of a winding stripe of level ground, and at times precipitous rocky mountains of blood-red granite jutting up in lofty cliffs, rise from the water’s edge, and confine, and so completely overshadow the river’s course, that some of the hamlets on its banks are said to be scarcely ever visited by the sun’s rays. There is not much wood ; but the bottom of the valley is pleasingly chequered with cultivated and meadow land, so that the sense of seclusion and repose and the occasional stern character of the Streens is relieved by the traces of unpretending industry.
6. But it is impossible to describe this scene in language more graphic than that used by the late Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, who may well be accounted the historian of Morayshire, and especially of the Findhorn.
306 A CATTLE -LIFTING INCIDENT. SECT. V.
“It was about this period, and (though it may surprise many) it was not much more than fifty years ago (prior to 1817), that Mr. R 1, a gentleman of the low country of Moray, was awakened early in a morning by the unpleasant intelligence of the Highlanders having carried off the whole of his cattle from a distant hill grazing in Brae Moray, a few miles above the junction of the rapid rivers Findhorn and Divie, and The Streens have recently been made accessible to carriages by a road formed by Lord Cawdor, the proprietor, for the use of his tenants, and which, proceeding from the village of Cawdor, is about nine miles long between both. He was an active man ; so that, after a few questions put to the breathless messenger, he lost not a moment in summoning and arming several servants : and, instead of taking the way to his farm, he struck at once across the country, in order to get, as speedily as possible, to a point where the rocks and woods, hanging over the deep bed of the Findhorn, first begin to be crowned by steep and lofty mountains, receding in long and misty perspective. This was the grand pass into the boundless wastes frequented by the robbers ; and here Mr. R 1 forded the river to its southern bank, and took his stand with his little party, well aware that, if he could not intercept his cattle here, he might abandon all further search after them.
“The spot chosen for the ambuscade was a beautiful range of scenery known by the name of the Streens. So deep is the hollow in many places, that some of the little cottages, with which its bottom is here and there sprinkled, have Gaelic appellations, implying that they never see the sun. There were then no houses near them ; but the party lay concealed among some huge fragments of rock, shivered, by the wedging ice of the previous winter, from the summit of a lofty crag, that hung half across the narrow holm where they stood. A little way farther down the river, the passage was contracted to a rude and scrambling footpath, and behind them the glen was equally confined. Both extremities of the small amphitheatre were shaded by almost impenetrable thickets of birch, hazel, alder, and holly, whilst a few wild pines found a scanty subsistence for their roots in midway air, on the face of the crags, and were twisted and wreathed, for lack of nourishment, into a thousand fantastic and picturesque forms. The serene sun of a beautiful summer’s day was declining, and half the narrow haugh was in broad and deep shadow, beautifully contrasted by the brilliant golden light that fell on the wooded bank on the other side of the river.
“Such was the scene where Mr. R 1 posted his party; and they had not waited long, listening in the silence of the evening, when they heard the distant lowing of the cattle, and the wild shouts of the reivers, re-echoed as they approached by the surrounding rocks. The sounds came nearer and nearer, and, at last, the crashing of the boughs announced the appearance of the more advanced part of the drove ; and the animals began to issue slowly from amongst the tangled wood, or to rush violently forth, as the blows or shouts of their drivers were more or less impetuous. As they came out, they collected themselves into a group, and stood bellowing, as if unwilling to proceed farther. In rear of the last of the herd, Mr. R 1 saw bursting singly from different parts of the brake, a party of fourteen Highlanders, all in the full costume of the mountains, and armed with dirk, pistols, and claymore ; and two or three of them carrying antique fowling-pieces.
Mr. R 1’s party consisted of not more than ten or eleven ; but, telling them to be firm, he drew them forth from their ambuscade, and ranged them on the green turf. With some exclamations of surprise, the robbers, at the shrill whistle of their leader, rushed forwards, and ranged themselves in front of their spoil. Mr. R 1 and his party stood their ground with determination, whilst the robbers appeared to hold a council of war. At last their chief, a little athletic man, with long red hair curling over his shoulders, and with a pale and thin but acute visage, advanced a little way before the rest. ‘ Mr. R 1,’ said he, in a loud voice, and speaking good English, though in a Highland accent, ‘ are you for peace or war ? if for war, look to yourself ; if for peace and treaty, order your men to stand fast, and advance to meet me.’
‘ I will treat,’ replied Mr. R 1 : ‘ but can I trust to your keeping faith ? ‘ ‘ Trust to the honour of a gentleman ! ‘ rejoined the other, with an imperious air. The respective parties were ordered to stand their ground ; and the two leaders advanced about seventy or eighty paces each towards the middle of the space, with their loaded guns cocked and presented at each other. A certain sum was demanded for the restitution of the cattle ; Mr. R 1 had not so much about him, but offered to give what money he had in his pocket, being a few pounds short of what the robber had asked. The bargain was concluded, the money paid, the guns uncocked and shouldered, and the two parties advanced to meet each other in perfect harmony.
‘ And now, Mr. R 1,’ said the leader of the band, ‘ you must look at your beasts to see that none of them be awanting.’ Mr. R 1 did so. ‘ They are all here,’ said he. ‘ but one small dun quey.’ ‘ Make yourself easy about her,’ replied the leader : ‘ she shall be in your pasture before daylight to-morrow morning.’ The treaty being thus concluded, the robbers proceeded up the glen, and were soon hid beneath its thick foliage ; whilst Mr. R 1’s people took charge of the cattle, and began to drive them homeward.
The reiver was as good as his word. Next morning the dun quey was seen grazing with the herd. Nobody knew how she came there ; but her jaded and draggled appearance bespoke the length and the nature of the night journey she had performed.”